Why Willow Suits a Traditional Garden

Willow has been part of the British landscape and working garden for centuries. In the walled kitchen gardens, rose borders and orchards of historic manor houses, woven willow was used for baskets, hurdles, plant ties and simple frames long before plastic became commonplace. It remains one of the most forgiving materials for a beginner. Soaked rods are supple enough to bend around a clump of delphiniums yet sturdy enough to support sweet peas, runner beans or climbing roses. Willow also ages gracefully, turning from pale green to silver-grey, and it sits comfortably beside old brick, stone, timber and hedging. For anyone drawn to traditional country living, a few bundles of rods, a pair of secateurs and a free afternoon are all you need to begin.

Choosing, Harvesting and Storing Your Rods

For beginners, the easiest willows are common osier (Salix viminalis), black maul and pheasant's tail. These produce long, straight, flexible one-year-old growth. If you have a willow patch or a neighbour with a coppice, cut rods in late autumn or winter, after leaf fall but before the buds burst in early spring. Choose stems about the thickness of a pencil, cutting them 1–2 metres long with sharp secateurs. Cut close to the stool and avoid leaving ragged ends.

If you are buying rods, look for bundles that are still slightly pliable rather than bone dry. Store them upright in a bucket with 10cm of water, in a cool, shaded spot. Alternatively, lay them in damp sand or compost in a shed. Never seal them in a plastic bag, as trapped moisture encourages mould. For longer storage, dry the rods thoroughly in an airy shed, then soak them before use. Freshly cut rods can be used within a few days and need little preparation.

• Stand bundles upright in shallow water in a sheltered corner.
• Lay longer rods in damp sand, turning them occasionally.
• Keep away from direct sun and frost.

Soaking and Preparing Willow for Weaving

Dried willow must be soaked to become workable. Submerge the bundles completely in a water butt, cattle trough or old bath. Weigh them down with bricks or a plank, because dry rods float. Allow three to seven days, depending on thickness and how dry the rods are. Thick bases may need a week; slender tips may be ready in three days. You will know they are ready when a rod bends into a circle without cracking or snapping. After soaking, wrap the rods in a damp cloth or old towel and let them mellow for an hour or two. Keep a bucket of water nearby whilst you work, and return any unused rods to soak. Avoid weaving with frozen or brittle rods, as they will break and spoil the structure.

First Projects: Plant Supports and Edging

A simple plant support is the ideal first project. Push six to eight soaked rods into the soil around a clump of peonies, dahlias or delphiniums, spacing them 15–20cm apart. Angle the rods slightly outward at soil level, then gather them at the top to form a loose tepee. Tie the top with jute or hemp twine. Weave one or two horizontal rods in and out between the uprights to give the support strength. For a wider border, make a row of these supports and link them with a single horizontal rod.

Willow edging is equally straightforward. Use shorter rods, about 20–30cm long, and push them vertically into the soil along a straight or curved line, 5cm apart. Weave a long, supple rod horizontally through the uprights, passing it alternately in front of and behind each stem. Add a second or third row for a traditional hurdle effect. This edging is excellent for defining herbaceous borders, keeping gravel off soil, or bordering a kitchen garden bed. A hose pipe laid on the ground makes a useful guide for curves.

Building a Simple Willow Obelisk

An obelisk looks impressive but follows the same principles. Choose five to seven long rods, 1.8–2.4 metres long. Mark a circle 30–40cm across, then push the rods into the ground at equal intervals around it. Bring the tops together and tie them firmly with twine, leaving a little room for the plants inside. Now weave horizontal rods between the uprights, starting near the base and working upwards. Pass each weaving rod alternately in front of and behind the uprights, pushing it down gently as you go. Keep the spacing even, and tie the weaving rod to an upright when you reach the end. Finish with a neat woven crown or a secure knot. For a more traditional look, try a simple three-rod wale, though beginners can weave one rod at a time with excellent results.

Looking After Your Structures

Willow structures usually last two to five years, depending on the weather and how well they are made. Check the ties each spring and replace any twine that has perished. If the rods begin to sprout, simply rub off the shoots or trim them with secateurs. In very damp soil, willow may root; this can be charming in a wild garden, but if you want to prevent it, stand the base of each rod in a short length of old hose pipe before pushing it into the ground. At the end of the season, lift annual supports, dry them in a shed and store them flat for reuse. With a little care, your first woven structures will become part of the quiet, practical beauty of a traditional country garden.